Finnegan, W: Barbarian Days
A Surfing Life
Von:Finnegan, William
ISBN: 9781472151414
ISBN-10: 1472151410
Artikelnummer: 14828093
Lieferantenbestellnummer: 14828093
Little, Brown Book Group,Kt ,2016 ,499 Seiten
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Verkaufspreis: 13,00 €
Incl. 7.00 % MWSt.
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'A masterpiece that recalls early James Salter' Geoff Dyer, Observer
Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.
William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.
'Breathtaking' New York Times
'Luscious' Ed Caesar, Guardian
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